tyrosinase activity when the melanogenesis
process occurs (23).
Face toner can function as a cleanser
after making facial repairs with facial cleansers
to remove excess sebum on facial skin so that
this face toner has anti-sebum activity (33, 34).
In addition, facial toner is also useful for
hydrating the skin to maintain its moisture (35).
e. Anti-wrinkle
Anti-wrinkle reduces or eliminates
wrinkles due to age, stress, smoking, or
exposure to free radicals or UV. So that in anti-
wrinkle activity, compounds containing
antioxidants are needed (36) (37) (38). In the
research of Zeka and Mashmoul, it was found
that the petals of Saffron (Crocus sativus L.)
(24) (19) have antioxidant effects derived from
kaempferol, crocin, and crocetin compounds,
and there are safranal compounds that have
antioxidant activity (39).
f. Anti-aging
Like anti-wrinkle, anti-aging can work
well if it contains antioxidants (40). Saffron
(Crocus sativus) contains zeaxanthin, lycopene,
carotene, crocetin, picrocrocin, kaempferol,
and crocin compounds that act as antioxidants
(25, 26).
One of the factors that cause skin aging
is exposure to UV radiation. So, the use of anti-
aging is usually accompanied by anti-UV (41).
Exposure to UV radiation, especially UV A
light, can increase the number of reactive
oxygen species and enzymes that act as
protective antioxidants such as catalase.
Catalase enzymes are commonly used as
biomarkers or important indicators of oxidative
stress. If in large quantities, it can cause
damage to the skin, such as skin aging (42, 43).
g. Anti-dark spot
Saffron is known to reduce melamine in which
dark spots are formed from the process of
melanogenesis by the occurrence of an
oxidative reaction that is controlled and
accelerated by the tyrosinase enzyme, which
will form melanin from a mixture of the
pigments eumelanin (dark brown) and
phaeomelanin (yellowish-red) which causes the
formation of dark spots on the skin (44) (11).
Increased melanin, especially the pigment
eumelanin, can be caused by ultraviolet
radiation (45). Saffron contains crocin
compounds that can inhibit the activity of the
tyrosinase enzyme by damaging the hydrogen
bonds in the tyrosinase, which causes
rearrangement and conformational changes in
the enzyme and based on silicon docking
studies, crocin forms extensive hydrophobic
interactions with amino acid residues of the
tyrosinase enzyme and crocin is an inhibitor.
Mixed competitive type (27). So that Saffron
can be used as an anti-dark spot and significant
depigmentation in reducing skin melanin (11).
h. Perfume
In the era of Ancient Greece, Saffron was often
used as a perfume by the royals because it had
a sensual fragrance and was admired by the
Greeks (11). Saffron has more than 150 volatile
and aroma-producing compounds. Safranal is
one of the main components of saffron essential
oil. It is formed by hydrolysis of picrocrocin
when it’s drying and storage (18). Studies have
shown that a higher temperature of around
80◦C and a less processing time of up to 30
minutes will result in a larger amount of
safranal. Saffron, with good quality, has 2.5%
volatile compounds such as safranal (46).
i. Coloring Pigments in Cosmetics
Saffron has been used as a natural color
for the manufacture of cosmetics since ancient
times. Reddish gold, orange, and orange-red
colors are produced by Saffron (47;23). these
colors have resulted from crocetin and crocin
compounds of Saffron(48), which have the
carotenoid glycoside structure (48).
5. Conclusion
Saffron has various activities, as an
antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-inflammatory,
perfume, face toner, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging,
anti-dark spot, and can provide color pigments.