Vol 3, Issue 2, 2021 (74-81)
http://journal.unpad.ac.id/idjp
*Corresponding author,
e-mail : norisca@unpad.ac.id (N. A. Putriana)
https://doi.org/10.24198/idjp.v3i2.34876
© 2021 N. A. Putriana et al
Review: Bioactivities of Saffron as an Active Ingredient in Cosmetics
Irna Roniawati1, Norisca Aliza Putriana2, Adinda Naswa Putri1, Yuniar Alfain Nur’aini1
1Faculty of Pharmacy, Padjadjaran University, Sumedang, Indonesia
2Department of Pharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Padjadjaran
University, Sumedang, Indonesia
Submitted : 29 July 2021, Revised : 11 August 2021, Accepted : 21 Sept 2021, Published : 3 Nov 2021
Abstract
Saffron (Crocus sativus) is a plant that has been widely used in Asia, especially in the
health sector. This can be related to other than that saffron is also known for its use as a
cosmetic because Saffron has various kinds of pharmacological activities beneficial to
human skin. Today's cosmetic users prefer cosmetics with herbal or natural ingredients,
especially in Indonesia. This happens because it is considered that herbal cosmetics are
safer and harmless in long-term use. Therefore, it is necessary to do related activity of
saffron as a cosmetic ingredient. The aim of this review to provide information regarding
the active substances in saffron that can be used as cosmetics. This is narrative research
where the data is obtained from PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar with
keywords Saffron, Saffron for cosmetics, and others. There were eight references, with
inclusion criteria being national and international journals and national websites
published in 2011-2021, especially regarding the study of saffron activity as an ingredient
for cosmetics. It was found that Saffron (Crocus sativus) contains compounds that have a
cosmetic activity such as safranal which can be used as a perfume, crocin as an antioxidant
and as anti-dark spot, crocin, safranal, and crocetin as anti-UV, crocin, and crocetin as an
anti-inflammatory and as coloring pigment in cosmetics, vitamin C, flavonoids and zinc
as a face toner, kaempferol, crocin and crocetin as anti-wrinkle, zeaxanthin, lycopene,
carotene, crocetin, picrocrocin, kaempferol, and crocin as anti-aging. Saffron (Crocus
sativus) has various beneficial activities for the skin, so it can be used as an ingredient in
making cosmetics.
Keywords: Cosmetics, Herbal, Saffron, Herbal Cosmetics, Active Ingredient
1. Introduction
In Indonesia, cosmetics is one of
primary needs for women. Even now it has
been produced for men and children. (1). It
makes the cosmetic industry has a very rapid
economic growth from year to year. According
to data from the Ministry of Industry of the
Republic of Indonesia, the national cosmetic
industry experienced an increase in the
economic growth of 20% compared to
economic growth in 2017.
The high demand for cosmetics has
made many irresponsible people using harmful
elements in the manufacture of cosmetics, such
as lead (Pb), arsenic (As), and mercury (Hg)
(2). Lead (Pb) in cosmetics will be absorbed in
the body, causing organ damage and cancer.
Meanwhile, arsenic in cosmetics can cause skin
lesions, respiratory problems, and cancer (3).
The active ingredient that used in cosmetics
should be safe, effective, and the dose should
be avoided from long-term effects and side
effects such as dermatitis and allergies (4;5).
Increased production and distribution of
harmful cosmetics, causing cosmetic users to
become worried and afraid in using cosmetics.
So that users start switching to herbal or natural
cosmetics because they are considered safer
N. A. Putriana et al / Indo J Pharm 3 (2021) 74-81
75
(6). These herbal ingredients are obtained from
plant parts of leaves, seeds, fruit, roots, stems,
flowers, rhizomes, and other plant parts (7).
Both are used in the whole form or have been
made into powdered extracts (8).
There are various kinds of herbal
cosmetic products such as herbal soap, herbal
shampoo, herbal face wash, and others (7). In
addition, some products function to protect the
skin from the harmful effects of free radicals,
maintain the keratin structure in good
condition, and make the skin healthier and
cleaner (6). This proves that herbal cosmetics
have properties comparable to synthetic
materials but are safer, lighter, and healthier to
use. Therefore, herbal cosmetics are
increasingly popular and favored by users
(9),(10). One of the herbal cosmetics that is
widely used by users in Indonesia is cosmetics
made from Saffron (Crocus sativus) (11).
Saffron in the market is sold in the form of a
cream joint which is efficacious as an anti-
wrinkle and also in the form of a face toner
(12). Saffron (Crocus sativus) is a plant
originating from the genus Iridaceous (13),
which has been widely used in Asia, especially
in the health sector, which can be related to its
use as a cosmetic because Saffron has a wide
range of pharmacological activities beneficial
for human skin (14). Saffron contains many
chemical compounds, including crocin,
safranal, crocetin, picrocrocin (15). crocin
compounds contain high glycosyl compounds
so that they dissolve in water and give a red or
orange color to Saffron, safranal compounds
are volatile compounds that produce aroma,
and picrocrocin compounds are compounds
that give saffron taste and aroma (16;14). These
compounds have effects such as antioxidant,
anti-UV, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, anti-
wrinkle, anti-dark spot, face toner, and can
produce color and aroma pigments (perfume)
so that Saffron can be used as an astringent
active in herbal cosmetics (11;17).
2. Method
The method used when writing this
article is narrative research. The library sources
used are as many as 49 libraries, both from
books, official websites, national or
international journals. The search for library
sources was carried out through databases at
PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar
with Saffron, Crocus sativus, Cosmetic,
Saffron for cosmetics, Saffron Cosmetics, and
so on. Next, selecting the library sources that
will be used is carried out by reviewing the title
and abstract. The libraries used include libraries
published in the last ten years.
3. Result
There are 536 journals obtained from
PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar
using keywords. Choose from every journal
found through titles and abstracts taken with
Saffron benefits for cosmetics. The results of
the selection were obtained from 8 journals
which are then analyzed narratively.
Figure 1. Paper selection algorithm
4. Discussion
a. Antioxidant
In Saffron, high antioxidant activity is
provided by crocin as a carotenoid. Crocin
showed high radical scavenging activity (50%
and 65% for 500 and 1000 ppm solutions in
methanol, respectively), followed by safranal
(34% for solutions of 500 ppm). This
compound's high radical scavenging activity
may be due to its ability to donate hydrogen
atoms to DPPH radicals (19).
b. Anti-Inflammation
N. A. Putriana et al / Indo J Pharm 3 (2021) 74-81
76
Saffron activity is an anti-inflammatory
derived from crocetin and crocins compounds
(21). Both of these compounds have strong
antioxidants shown through their inhibition in
producing pro-inflammatory cytokines such as
IL-1 production by suppressing NF-B activity
through inhibition of phosphorylation I kappa
B kinase-a (IKK-a) and prevention of nuclear
translocation of NF-B. p65 subunit (22). Crocin
at a dose of 20 mg/kg can inhibit several pro-
inflammatory cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-
α) and inflammatory mediators (prostaglandin
E-2 (PGE-2) and COX-2) production (21). In
addition, crocin and safranal also suppress the
inflammatory pain response and reduce the
number of neutrophils (28).
Table 1. Activity of saffron and its compounds.
Effect
Activity
Reference
Perfume
Main components of saffron
essential oil.
[18]
Antioxidant
High radical scavenging
activity
[19]
Anti-UV
As an antioxidant that can
counteract and damage UV
radiation on the skin
[20]
Anti-Inflammation
Inhibits that some pro-
inflammatory cytokines
[21] [22]
Face Toner
Vit. C: treat
hyperpigmentation
Flavonoid: brighten the face
Zinc: retinol protein binder
[23]
Anti-Wrinkle
Antioxidant
[24]
Anti-Aging
Antioxidant
[25] [26]
Anti-Dark Spot
Inhibits the enzyme
tyrosinase
[27]
Coloring Pigments in
Cosmetics
It gives red or orange
[14]
c. Anti-UV
Saffron flowers (Crocus sativus)
contain main compounds such as crocin,
safranal, and crocetin which have various
activities, for example, as antioxidants (20).
Safranal is an aldehyde monoterpene that is
included in the main volatile compounds in
Saffron Flowers. Safranal can act as an anti-UV
due to its activity as an antioxidant that can
counteract free radicals from ultraviolet (UV)
rays. This is because the impact of UV rays on
the skin can cause dry skin, wrinkles, and even
sagging (29).
Anti-UV, commonly called Sunscreen,
is included in photoprotection, which can
prevent and even damage UV radiation that
harms the skin, such as aging (30). In addition,
UV radiation can cause sunburn to skin cancer
(31).
d. Face Toner
According to Salvi and Prima's 2021
study, the pistil of Saffron (Crocus sativus) can
be used as a face toner because it contains
Vitamin C, Flavonoids, and Zinc which can
traditionally treat facial skin. Vitamin C
contained in the pistil of the Saffron flower is
1.41%. Vitamin C serves to treat
hyperpigmentation (32). Zinc functions as a
component of the retinol-binding protein so
that Vitamin A can flow in the blood.
Flavonoids function to depigmentation or are
often referred to as brightening agents to inhibit
N. A. Putriana et al / Indo J Pharm 3 (2021) 74-81
77
tyrosinase activity when the melanogenesis
process occurs (23).
Face toner can function as a cleanser
after making facial repairs with facial cleansers
to remove excess sebum on facial skin so that
this face toner has anti-sebum activity (33, 34).
In addition, facial toner is also useful for
hydrating the skin to maintain its moisture (35).
e. Anti-wrinkle
Anti-wrinkle reduces or eliminates
wrinkles due to age, stress, smoking, or
exposure to free radicals or UV. So that in anti-
wrinkle activity, compounds containing
antioxidants are needed (36) (37) (38). In the
research of Zeka and Mashmoul, it was found
that the petals of Saffron (Crocus sativus L.)
(24) (19) have antioxidant effects derived from
kaempferol, crocin, and crocetin compounds,
and there are safranal compounds that have
antioxidant activity (39).
f. Anti-aging
Like anti-wrinkle, anti-aging can work
well if it contains antioxidants (40). Saffron
(Crocus sativus) contains zeaxanthin, lycopene,
carotene, crocetin, picrocrocin, kaempferol,
and crocin compounds that act as antioxidants
(25, 26).
One of the factors that cause skin aging
is exposure to UV radiation. So, the use of anti-
aging is usually accompanied by anti-UV (41).
Exposure to UV radiation, especially UV A
light, can increase the number of reactive
oxygen species and enzymes that act as
protective antioxidants such as catalase.
Catalase enzymes are commonly used as
biomarkers or important indicators of oxidative
stress. If in large quantities, it can cause
damage to the skin, such as skin aging (42, 43).
g. Anti-dark spot
Saffron is known to reduce melamine in which
dark spots are formed from the process of
melanogenesis by the occurrence of an
oxidative reaction that is controlled and
accelerated by the tyrosinase enzyme, which
will form melanin from a mixture of the
pigments eumelanin (dark brown) and
phaeomelanin (yellowish-red) which causes the
formation of dark spots on the skin (44) (11).
Increased melanin, especially the pigment
eumelanin, can be caused by ultraviolet
radiation (45). Saffron contains crocin
compounds that can inhibit the activity of the
tyrosinase enzyme by damaging the hydrogen
bonds in the tyrosinase, which causes
rearrangement and conformational changes in
the enzyme and based on silicon docking
studies, crocin forms extensive hydrophobic
interactions with amino acid residues of the
tyrosinase enzyme and crocin is an inhibitor.
Mixed competitive type (27). So that Saffron
can be used as an anti-dark spot and significant
depigmentation in reducing skin melanin (11).
h. Perfume
In the era of Ancient Greece, Saffron was often
used as a perfume by the royals because it had
a sensual fragrance and was admired by the
Greeks (11). Saffron has more than 150 volatile
and aroma-producing compounds. Safranal is
one of the main components of saffron essential
oil. It is formed by hydrolysis of picrocrocin
when it’s drying and storage (18). Studies have
shown that a higher temperature of around
80◦C and a less processing time of up to 30
minutes will result in a larger amount of
safranal. Saffron, with good quality, has 2.5%
volatile compounds such as safranal (46).
i. Coloring Pigments in Cosmetics
Saffron has been used as a natural color
for the manufacture of cosmetics since ancient
times. Reddish gold, orange, and orange-red
colors are produced by Saffron (47;23). these
colors have resulted from crocetin and crocin
compounds of Saffron(48), which have the
carotenoid glycoside structure (48).
5. Conclusion
Saffron has various activities, as an
antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-inflammatory,
perfume, face toner, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging,
anti-dark spot, and can provide color pigments.
N. A. Putriana et al / Indo J Pharm 3 (2021) 74-81
78
So that Saffron has the potential to be used in
the manufacture of cosmetics.
Acknowledgement
The author would like to thank Apt.
Norisca Aliza Putriana, M.Farm as a Advisor
who has guided the author to carry out this
review. And also Prof. apt. Rizky Abdullah,
S.Si, Ph.D. as a lecturer in Metodologi Riset
dan Biostatistik at the Faculty of Pharmacy,
Padjadjaran University.
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