Vol 4, Issue 2, 2022 (267-276)
http://journal.unpad.ac.id/idjp
*Corresponding author,
e-mail : arnita17001@mail.unpad.ac.id (A. Annisanur)
https://doi.org/10.24198/idjp.v4i2.40492
© 2022 A.Annisanur et al
Evaluation of Shampoo by Quality Control: Review
Arnita Annisanur*1, Ida Musfiroh2
1Pharmacist Professional, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Padjadjaran
2Department of Pharmaceutical Analysis and Medicinal Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy,
Universitas Padjadjaran
Submitted : 04/07/2022, Revised : 14/08/2022,, Accepted : 24/08/ 2022, Published : 12/09/2022
Abstract
Shampoo is a product that is used to clean hair from dirts and also for specific
therapeutic objectives such as conquering dandruff and hair loss. Product evaluation
is a step that cannot be avoided to ensure product quality, including shampoo. As
stated in the Good Manufacturing Practice guidelines, in the process of releasing
product, the quality control in pharmaceutical industry must guarantee that the
appropriate tests have been performed. The purpose of this review is to determine
what attributes need to be evaluated in shampoo preparations. Datas for this review
were obtained from national and international scientific publications published in
the last 10 years using websites such as PubMed, Science Direct, and Springer. The
keywords used in the search process are shampoo, evaluation of shampoo, types of
shampoo. Final number of articles that used are 50 articles. Based on the search
results, it is concluded that the evaluation of shampoo preparations consisted of
testing physical appearance, homogeneity test, pH, solid content, viscosity,
cleansing ability, and others.
Keywords: Shampoo, quality control, products evaluation.
1. Introduction
Hair is a part of the body that serves
both decorative and protective functions.
Hair has decorative functions since it can
improve people's look and protective
functions because it shields the head from
impacts and other disruptions (1). Because
hair is the body's outermost layer, it is
impervious to the damaging effects of sun
exposure, pollution, cosmetic components,
and other cleansing agents. Therefore,
hair’s health is important and inextricably
linked to everyday bodily care. The
commonly found hair problems are
dandruff and hair loss (2). Dandruff is a
common skin ailment that affects about
50% adult population globally (3). Signs of
dandruff are excessive redness, itching, and
scalp exfoliation (4). Meanwhile, hair loss
is a dermatological condition that is
influenced by physical and psychological
stress (5).
Shampoo is one of the most commonly
used cosmetic products in daily life to treat
the scalp and hair (6). Shampoo is a product
that contains a surfactant in an appropriate
form (liquid, solid, or powder) to clean the
hair shaft and scalp of oil, dirt, and skin
debris (7). The primary principle of
shampoo is to clear the scalp from sebum
and other contaminants, however shampoo
can also be used for medicinal purposes,
which is known as therapeutic shampoo (8).
Shampoos are categorized into numerous
categories according on their specialized
A. Annisanur et al / Indo J Pharm 4 (2022) 267-276
268
tasks, including general-purpose shampoos,
conditioning shampoos, anti-dandruff
shampoos, baby shampoos, and dry
shampoos. Shampoos are generally made as
solutions, emulsions, liquids, creams,
pastes, gels, and others (9).
One of the duties of quality control is to
carry out a releasing procedure that ensures
that all relevant tests have been carried out,
therefore a test is required to ensure that the
quality formed from the start of the product
production process is maintained until the
product is released (10). Therefore, the
shampoo must be evaluated beforehand,
which consists of visual assessment,
measurement of pH, viscosity, wettability,
and others (11).
2. Method
The method used in this Literature
Review is to search through Google on the
web as the Science Direct (Elsevier),
Springer, PubMed. The data sources used
are scientific books and national and
international journals published during the
last 10 years. The keywords used in the
search process are shampoo, evaluation of
shampoo, types of shampoo. The inclusion
criteria are articles about type of shampoos,
formulation and evaluations of shampoo
while the exclusion criteria are articles
about formula optimization and articles that
are not meet the criteria needed.
3. Result
Hair is an important element of the body
that serves as an indicator of health. Hair is
made up of three parts: bulbs, roots, and
stems that are lodged in pilosebaceous
follicles in the dermis. The hair bulb is the
deepest end of the hair and is related to the
dermal papilla, which is rich in innervation
and vascularity thus provides nutrients for
hair growth (12). The hair root is firmly
attached in the hair follicle, which is placed
between the hair bulb and the epidermis'
surface. On the outside, the hair root and
shaft are composed of three equal
concentric layers: the medulla, cortex, and
cuticle. The medulla is the center core of the
cortex, which includes the hair's largest and
thickest part (13). The cuticle is a layer that
is highly resistant of overlapping dead cells
by forming a protective barrier against the
external environment and external
aggressions. The cuticle made up by
endocuticle and exocuticle (14). Normal
cuticles have a smooth appearance, allow
light reflection, and prevent friction
between hair shafts, and are important for
the luster and texture of the hair (12).
Shampoo is a hair care product that cleans
the hair and scalp. Shampoo is typically
offered in the form of a thick liquid and
also, although not commonly, in powder
form. The ultimate goal of using shampoo
Figure 1. Flowchart of methodology
Number of articles found according to
keywords
n = 115 articles
Inclusion criteria
n = 50 articles
Exclusion criteria
n = 65 articles
A. Annisanur et al / Indo J Pharm 4 (2022) 267-276
269
is to get rid of the unwanted impurities that
have accumulated on the hair and its
antimicrobial properties will prevent
infection of the scalp without exfoliating
much of sebum or making the hair unruly
(15).
Shampoos are made up of 10-30
components that are categorised according
to their different activities. These
ingredients include cleansing agents called
surfactants that remove sebum,
conditioning agents that promote softness
of the hair, active compounds that treat
certain disorders like dandruff, and
additives like preservatives that help to the
product's durability and comfort. Every
ingredient is tested, approved, and is listed
on the product label (16).
As a pharmaceutical preparation, shampoo
must be evaluated to ensure that the quality
that is built into the product is as required
or intended. The following tests are used to
evaluate a shampoo preparation:
1. Physical appearance/visual
assessment
Examine the preparation's shape,
fragrance, and color (17).
2. Homogeneity test
The presence or absence of coarse
particles in the shampoo
formulation was carried out to
determine homogeneity. Various
concentrations of shampoo were
applied to the watch glass and then
monitored. The shampoo must
exhibit a homogeneous composition
and no visible coarse granules (18).
3. Determination of pH
The pH of the shampoo can affect
hair quality, minimize eye irritation,
and maintain the scalp's ecological
balance. Furthermore, one of the
elements to limit hair damage is pH
(19). If the shampoo's pH is too
alkaline, it might induce swelling of
the hair shaft, resulting in hair
damage (20).
The pH was determined at room
temperature using pH paper; the
universal pH is dipped in the
shampoo formulation and then
examining the color changes on the
pH paper. The pH range of the
preparation is then determined by
comparing the color created with
the pH indicator (21). The quality
requirements of pH value specified
by SNI is between 5.0 and 9.0 (22).
In this pH range, it can prevent hair
damage (23).
4. Solid content
One of the physical parameters used
to determine shampoo quality is
solid content. A shampoo with a
low solids content makes the
shampoo runny and could be dried
rapidly from hair, whereas a
shampoo with a high solids content
is difficult to be formulated and
rinsed from hair (24). This test
carried out by weighing a clean and
dry steam dish and then adding 4
grams of shampoo to the steam dish.
Place the steam dish containing the
shampoo on the hot plate until the
liquid portion evaporates. Then,
weigh the preparation (solids) after
drying (25). A solids concentration
of 20-30% is considered the optimal
range for commercial shampoos
(26).
5. Viscosity
The viscosity of shampoo reflects
the quantity of solid substance in the
mixture. Viscosity plays an
important role in defining many
shampoo attributes such as
spreadability and consistency. The
higher the viscosity, the better the
consistency of the shampoo. This is
due to the fact that viscosity is
associated with a larger gel fraction
(27). Furthermore, shampoo
viscosity affects shelf-life stability
and product aesthetics such as
clarity, ease of flow from the box,
spreadability when it is applied to
hair, and product consistency in the
packaging (28). Viscosity
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270
measurements were carried out
using a Brookfield Viscometer. The
shampoo preparation to be tested
was poured into a beaker glass
(±200 mL), then it was placed under
the Brookfield DV-E model
viscometer with an appropriate
spindle. The spindle is then put into
the preparation until it is completely
submerged. Measurements were
taken after one week and four weeks
of storage (29).
6. Cleansing action
Another important parameter in
determining a shampoo's cleansing
capacity is dirt dispersion; a good
quality shampoo concentrates dirt in
the water, whereas a poor quality
shampoo concentrates filth on the
foam preparation. Any dirt or stains
that become concentrated in the
lather will be difficult to rinse off
and thus will be deposited in the
hair. Shampoo that concentrates dirt
or stains in water is effective in
cleansing (27). This test is
performed by placing 0.1 mL of
shampoo in a test tube and then
adding water until the amount
reaches 10 mL. Then, add 2 droplets
of liquid ink to the tube, close it, and
shake it 10 times. Observe the
amount of ink dispersed in the
foam, and ensure that the ink
remains in the water portion (state
qualitatively) (21).
7. Foaming ability and stability
The volume and stability of the
foam are the most important factors
in determining shampoo quality and
consumer approval (30). The
presence of foam reduces any
friction, which reduces the
occurrence of hair damage (31).
Furthermore, the presence of foam
makes it easier to wash the hair and
keeps the hair shafts from sticking
together, resulting in tangles (32).
Shampoos with the highest bulk
(stated by volume) and the longest
time to keep their volume are
considered to be the most desirable.
A good shampoo product is one that
has a large volume of stable lather
after shaking (27). The foam height
is determined by making a 2%
solution in 500 ml of water. The
solution should then be transferred
to a 1 L flask. Then, pour 50 mL of
test solution into a 1 L measuring
cup and set it beneath the flask's top.
Pour the 500 ml solution in the flask
into a measuring cup containing 50
ml of the test solution. Examine the
height of the foam after 0.5, 3, 5,
and 7 minutes (33). The foam height
requirement is 1.3-22 cm (34).
8. Surface tension
Surface tension is measured at 25°C
with a Du Noüy ring tensiometer
(35). This apparatus works by
measuring the force required to
remove the platinum and iridium
rings from the liquid surface (36).
Furthermore, measurements could
also be taken with a stalagmometer
by preparing shampoo that has been
diluted to 10% with distilled water
at room temperature. First, wash the
stalagmometer with chromic acid
and pure air because oil or other
lubricants can negatively damage
the surface tension (37). Then,
measure the amount of solution that
falls between the two predetermined
points (three times for each
shampoo solution) (38). The surface
tension is measured by the
following equation:
R2 = (W3-W1) N1 x R1
(W2 -W1) N2
Keterangan:
W1: weight of empty beaker.
W2: weight of beaker with distilled
water.
W3: weight of beaker with a
shampoo solution.
N1: the number of distilled water
droplets.
A. Annisanur et al / Indo J Pharm 4 (2022) 267-276
271
N2: number of drops of shampoo
solution.
R1: surface tension of distilled
water at room temperature.
R2: surface tension of shampoo
solution (39).
A good shampoo preparation can
reduce the surface tension of pure
water from 72 to less than 40
dyne/cm 25°C. Surfactants and
other compounds that diminish the
surface tension of the air have an
effect on its effectiveness.
Therefore, shampoos that diminish
water's surface tension have strong
detergency (cleansing ability) (27).
9. Wetting ability
Shampoo's wetting ability is
depending on the concentration of
surfactant in the formulation. A
higher surfactant concentration will
result in better wetting ability. The
shampoos with highest demand are
those with the shortest wetting time.
Shampoo formulations with shorter
wetting times contain more
detergent (27). Thus, the lesser time
it takes to remove the shampoo from
the hair, the better cleansing ability
the shampoo has (40). Wetting time
is calculated by timing how long it
takes for the shampoo to completely
wet the canvas paper. Then weigh
the canvas before cutting it into 1-
inch-diameter discs. After that,
place a disc of canvas paper on the
surface of the shampoo (1% v/v)
and time how long it takes for the
paper to absorb the shampoo using
a stopwatch (41).
10. Conditioning performance
The conditioning performance of
shampoo depends on its chemical
properties. Shampoos generally
contain conditioning polymers that
deposit, adhere to, or absorb into
hair proteins. The polymer
increases the ease of styling,
reduces static, and makes hair soft
and smooth. The shampoo's
conditioning effect was evaluated
by first washing the cut hair mass
with the shampoo preparation and
then performing physical
observations (27). Conditioning
performance criteria are graded on a
scale of 1 to 4, with 4 being very
good, 3 being good, 2 being
satisfactory, and 1 being poor (42).
11. Specific gravity
One of the physical analyses
performed to determine the stability
of the shampoo during storage is
specific gravity, because knowing
the specific gravity may also
establish the purity value of the
shampoo (43). The specific gravity
measurement is carried out using a
pyrex pycnometer. The pycnometer
is cleaned first, then dried and
allowed to cool. Then, weigh and
record the weight of the empty
pycnometer (A). The pycnometer is
then filled with water until it is
completely full and no air remains.
Clean the pycnometer's neck with a
clean towel before weighing it.
Next, record the weight of a
pycnometer filled with water (B).
Following that, the pycnometer is
cleaned and dried. Then, pour a
sample of the shampoo preparation
into the pycnometer. Weigh and
record the weight of the sample-
containing pycnometer (C). Set the
measurement conditions to a
temperature of 25°C (21).
12. Microbial examination
Mix 100 microliters of shampoo
preparation with liquid Mueller
Hinton agar and pour it into sterile
petri dishes under aseptic
conditions. The container is rotated
to thoroughly mix the contents
before it starts to harden. Following
that, the plate was incubated at 37°C
for 24 hours and the microbial
growth was detected (44).
13. Antimicrobial activity
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The diameter of the zone of
inhibition indicates the relative
activity of the different antibacterial
agents against the pathogen under
investigation (45).
14. Antimicrobial preservative
effectiveness test
The preservatives used in shampoos
are the most synthetic preservatives
to prevent degradation due to
microbial growth as well as
undesired chemical changes (46).
Thus, the efficiency of
preservatives used in shampoo must
be assessed because it influences
the product’s quality. To assess the
efficiency of preservatives, 20 mL
of shampoo and 0.1 mL of
microbial suspension were
prepared, then poured to each test
tube and stored at room temperature
for 7, 14, 21, 28 (and 35 days for C.
Albicans) days. After that, take 1 ml
of each tube's contents and place it
on two sterile dishes. Then, add 15-
20ml of TSA agar at 40°C to it.
Store the agar at 37°C for 24 hours
after it harden (47).
15. Stability study
Thermal stability testing is
performed by placing the shampoo
formulation in a glass tube and
storing it in a room with humidity
levels of 45°C and 75% relative
humidity. After that, monitor the
appearance and physical stability of
the shampoo for three months with
one-month intervals (48).
Table 1.1 Evaluation and criteria of shampoo
The use of shampoo as a cleanser and a
source of nutrition for hair is a solution to
hair problems due to excess amount of
sebum on the scalp and inadequate hair
nutrition (49). Criterias of a good shampoo
are it could be used for cleansing at the very
least, has a stable oil-in-water emulsion,
consistent (stable) aroma and color, good
Evaluation
Criteria
Physical appearance/visual
assesment
Shape, fragrance and color as
designed
Homogeneity test
Homogeneous composition
Determination of pH
5.0-9.0
Solid content
20-30%
Viscosity
High viscosity
Cleansing action
Concentrates dirt in the water
Foaming ability and stability
The foam height is 1.3-2.2 cm and
stable
Surface tension
Less than 40 dyne/cm 25°C
Wetting ability
The shortest wetting time
Conditioning performance
4 = very good ; 3 = good ; 2 =
satisfactory ; and 1 = poor
Specific gravity
1.010-1.100
Microbial examination
Less than 102 CFU/ml
Antimicrobial activity
No diameter of zone of inhibition
correspond to the observed
microbes
Antimicrobial preservative
effectiveness test
No sign of microbial growth
Stability study
Stable during storage period
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viscosity, close pH value to the
physiological pH of the scalp, produce a
small, stable, and abundant foam, does not
irritate the skin, and has microbial
contamination within the allowable range
(50).
4. Conclusion
Before a product is approved by the quality
supervisor in the pharmaceutical industry, it
must first meet the acceptance criteria that
have been set. Shampoo preparations that
meet the acceptance standards are
guaranteed to be of high quality. This high
quality cannot be obtained by testing the
final product alone, rather it must be built
from the start of preparation development.
In this case, pharmaceutical industry must
provide high-quality products that meet the
acceptance requirements in order to be well
received by consumers.
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